Is it okay to describe a wine as “perfect”?
I think so.
I was particularly eager to hear what the “pros” had to say on day two of the 7th Annual Wine Bloggers Conference, in a session titled: Panel of Professional Print Wine Writers. The professionals on the panel included writers James Conaway, Mike Dunne, and Steve Heimoff.
(Photo courtesy of George Rose Photography. Used with permission.)
But five minutes into the Q&A portion of the panel I started to feel discouraged.
First of all, I couldn’t help but notice the complete lack of diversity when assessing the panel members. Though the panel was moderated by an awesome woman, the actual panel consisted of just three older, white, men who are traditional print journalists…. Okay. But, they were speaking to an audience of wine bloggers. Many of whom were women. Many were younger. And several of whom were not Caucasian.
They discussed how they got into wine writing, how much print writers make these days, and began to give advice in a Q&A format.
And that is where they started to frustrate me. It quickly became apparent to me that they were missing the boat on addressing this particular audience – an audience of wine bloggers. Some bloggers follow traditional journalism standards, but many don’t. Additionally they demonstrated a fundamental lack of understanding of the way many blogs are successful.
When asked about the use (or overuse) of photos and imagery in a blog post, they fumbled to a response, missing entirely the grasp on the power of imagery in online media. “Art Directors are in charge of photos,” they claimed, and aren’t all that important anyways.
Um, no. I’m pretty sure this famous food blogger would argue otherwise about the importance of imagery to tell a story.
It wasn’t until they collectively expressed their pet peeves in wine blogging –the “to do” and “not to do” in wine writing advice– that I stared to feel exasperated. For instance, the using terms like “perfect” to describe a wine (as in “perfect steak wine”) was universally disapproved of and joked about as if it were some kind of insider “pro” thing to turn their nose on people who use those terms.
Because, of course there’s one, and only one way to properly write about wine. And get paid for it.
I can’t begin to tell you how many people I encounter (friends, family, readers, folks in classes I teach, even strangers!) who are indeed looking for a “perfect” [fill in the blank] wine.
No, they’re not looking for a wine that exhibits dense loamy earth, with an essence of eucalyptus, cassis, mint, and tobacco leaf, aged 18 months in new French oak barrels with chewy tannins. They want an inexpensive and refreshing wine appropriate to serve at their backyard BBQ or summer picnic, or a special wine good enough to bring to dinner with their future in-laws. And sometimes, it would be helpful if the wine was indeed “delicious” or “yummy.”
Many don’t want to search too far and wide for this “perfect” wine, nor be treated like an idiot in a stuffy wine store for not knowing exactly what they like or want. They may not care about points, but they also don’t want to spend too much on a wine. Sure, sometimes they will indeed splurge on a $20+ bottle of wine. But for the most part, many people just want something that tastes good, doesn’t cost a lot, something they don’t really have to think about, and can confidently serve to friends without stressing.
The perfect wine to celebrate a weekend with your best friends.
But, according to the “professionals” at the conference, we should refrain from that style of writing, for it isn’t true journalism.
I just want those panelists to know that not all of us who blog are out to be journalists. Some of us just simply wish to be helpful to real people who buy real wine and have real needs (like finding a $10 wine to bring to a tailgating party). Yes, there are people out there who are looking for that “perfect” wine!
Looking for the perfect picnic wines?
I freelance for a variety of publications, both print and online. Some wine related, some not. I have a different tone depending on my particular audience and publication I’m writing for. I LOVE it when I have an editor. But for my blog, I don’t have one (well, unless you count my husband who often proofreads my work. He does love to call me out on my excessive use of exclamation points!! But normally he’s just as exhausted as I am to catch my improper comma placements).
For my blog, I think it’s absolutely okay (and often encouraged) to describe a wine as the “perfect” poolside sipper, porch pounder, party wine, gardening wine, or post-marathon wine. And as a consumer (because yes, I also buy a lot of wine with my own cash money), I actually appreciate the terms “delicious”, “refreshing”, and sometimes even “yummy”.
The perfect wine for a hot summer night when you still itch to sit by the fire
I get where you’re coming from James, Mike, and Steve. I do. You’re coming from an old-school print journalism standard, and I do respect that. But not everyone strives to be that kind of writer.
I think it may have been more helpful, to the audience at a wine BLOGGERS conference, to have had a few different perspectives and voices on that panel. Perhaps a panelist who understood the word of blogs and blogging, like a professional blogger (though not necessarily “wine” blogger). I just think multiple perspectives, including the three panelists, would have led to a richer discussion.
And just for comparison, my favorite food blogger excessively uses the term “you guys” to refer to her readers, and “yum”, “best ever”, even “OMG”, to describe her food. And she’s very popular. And very successful. In fact, she made over $31,000 on her blog… just last month alone. So, there’s that.
So, while I didn’t speak up during the panel discussion (and instead sat there in silence and frustration without standing up and expressing my true feelings), I do get paid to write about wine — both in print, and online, and I feel very blessed to have a career doing something I LOVE doing. I also write my own blog. And I just want anyone in that room who may have been discouraged by that panel to know that, yes, you can be yourself, and use slang terms, and descriptors like “perfect” and “delicious” in your BLOG posts. Because at the end of the day, it’s a blog. And it’s YOUR blog. You are the editor and you get to make those decisions. And when you do get the (sometimes awesome) experience of working with an editor for a print or online publication, she or he will be the one to determine if those terms get edited out of the article in order to fit that publication’s specific audience.
But if it works for YOUR audience, for your blog, then, by all means, go with it!
Looking for the perfect wine for that moment when you discover your kids just filled the pool with mud and decided to start mud wrestling in it? I was.
I simply believe the organizers missed an opportunity to add diversity to the panel. Not just diversity of gender, and social and economic background. But also diversity of writing styles and examples of what can be successful in this day and age.
And I’m now off to go find the perfect wine to drink with the turkey burgers I’m grilling up for dinner tonight.
Is there such thing as the “perfect burger wine”?
Myrtle says
They relate to print from the panel are not directly relevant to most of the bloggers that were in the room. And some of the comments were so print specific that it showed that they were not relating to blogging audience per se
Thanks
Shawn Burgert says
I appreciate your style and approach to your viewpoint. Some have referenced this as a rant, and I would have to disagree. I view rants as emotionally lead, and often disregarding others feelings to push their own. In many instances, rationality and facts go out the window.
You maintained control, respect, and dignity for all mentioned, including your responses. I applaud you!
There is one aspect I would consider paramount to the panel we attended.
Know your audience.
It would seem, at least based upon this class we attended, that this point may have been the real disconnect. Had the panel been able to relate and communicate to bloggers, and the diversity of the room, then it would not have had so many attendees feeling the way you’ve described.
While the panels demographic may have not been able to connect, they as people could have connected. Rapper Eminem is able to connect to a large diversity, and I think any panel has that same opportunity. It is up to them to make the connection.
My feeling is that one of the panelist made the connection, but some of that may have been lost by previous comments. I sense some just felt offended by some statements and could not get past them. My judgment is based upon both those I’ve communicated with, and the blog posts on this topic.
So I guess that is my rant, 🙂
Cheers to you!
Shawn
Mary says
Hi Shawn, I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to write such a thoughtful response to my post, and I’m relieved to hear you didn’t take it as a “rant” as others may have. I spent a long time drafting and editing this piece to try to avoid that. In fact, I’ve never even written anything rant-like on this site before this. It’s not my style. But after speaking with several frustrated attendees after the particular panel, on specific points, I felt the need to voice my thoughts.
I meant no offense to the panelists in this post, and I sincerely hope they didn’t take it that way.
You nailed exactly my point – “Know your audience”
I attended the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers a few years ago and observed a very (very) similar panel (same topic, similar advice). Yet nothing stirred from the audience. This is because the audience was comprised of print writers or aspiring print writers. I think the blogger SAHMmelier had an excellent, relevant, yet fun comparison when she wrote, “It was kind of like Cat Stevens coaching Eminem on storytelling in music. Both are great at storytelling, but the motivation and the audience differ greatly.”
I also agree with you that the connection was lost on many, myself included, by statements they couldn’t get past. My post is an example of that. I would have loved to have a conversation with a couple of the panelists after the session (specifically the one you mentioned in your final paragraph), and chat more informally about some of my thoughts, but it just didn’t happen with how large the conference was.
Cheers!
Leeann Froese says
Mary, what thoughtful observations and a very good post. This is important feedback for the organizers but also a big observation as to where print wine writing is at in North America as well. I would agree with you that most of the comments as they relate to print from the panel are not directly relevant to most the bloggers that were in the room. And some of the comments were so print specific that it showed that they were not relating to blogging audience per se. But if, as Allan says this was meant to stand out as a print panel and I guess they succeeded, and we’ll see what next year holds.
WineWonkette says
I did not attend that seminar on purpose, because it would be to me like going to a religious service where the leaders had a completely different view from the congregants — and had no idea how their congregants lived. That said, it’s easy to say photos aren’t important when you write for a publication that includes nicely composed photos with your piece — that you don’t have to both to take, process, position and post. Wonder just how successful the writers’ articles would be in a medium without photographs? On-line with an instant gratification medium? I’m guessing not at all.
Cheers Mary for speaking truth to power!
Mary says
Thanks so much 🙂 And totally agree about photos. So incredibly important for online!
Alison says
Thank you for such an articulate response. I actually attended this panel looking for advice on wine writing for a lifestyle piece I was working on, and left extremely frustrated- with more “do nots” than “dos”
And completely contrary advice from what I was getting from my editor.
I think some diversity and debate would have changed that. I respect the work the panelists have and are doing, but it seemed strangely out of touch. The changing demographics of wine consumers and HOW people consume information are extremely important issues that I don’t feel weren’t necessarily addressed. (I was only able to sit in for half the panel, but were declining subscription numbers and the effects on print journalism ever addressed?!)
Btw: I’ve never had to pair wine with mud-wrestling. What IS the perfect pairing? Whatever’s closest? Stelvin closure for quick access? The “Oh shit” bottle you’re saving for “one of those days”? Just guessing here…I’m gonna keep a bottle of Austrian Gruner on hand just in case…
Cheers,
Alison (Bon Vivant DC)
Mary says
Hi Alison, thanks for the comment! And that was exactly how I felt. I do respect the panel members, but they don’t necessarily represent the new wave of print. It would have been fantastic for them to be there representing an old-school print, but also to have a couple people representing the future of print. Different perspectives, that’s all. And perhaps a little optimism as well?!
And as for the mud-wrestling wine. Well, first I made myself a cocktail. The gin was closer than the wine at that particular moment. Then eventually worked my way to rosé, because it was chilled and, yes, had a stelvin closure (a must for moms who have too much to think about than keeping the cork puller nearby).
Alison says
I’ll eagerly await your inevitable post on mud-wrestling drinking dos and don’ts- I think many of my friends with children would get a kick out of it! Quick, easy & accessible seem to be the main components they look for, but the parenting crisis wine niche is clearly under-served. As a mom of twins, I’m sure you’re particularly well qualified!
(Pardon the typos- writing from my phone)
Carolyn Blakeslee says
Great article, thanks!
Wineries and PR folks have been wonderful to me, for the most part. The one thing they could do over and above what they’re doing now: publish excerpts of the blog post with a link back to the post or to the blog. That way they get media testimonials, we get traffic.
Yesterday I learned that Jancis Robinson had cited my blog in one of her reviews of an $11 wine. I’d either gone to the Web site or had a tech sheet on it sent to me with the wine — in any case, I delineated the blend’s grapes and percentages. She quoted it and linked back to my piece. Much appreciated.
Mary says
Wow. Congrats on the Jancis Robinson citing. That’s very cool!
Rebecca Gomez Farrell says
As a first-time WBC attendee, it’s good to hear that there has been more focus on panels of bloggers rather than journalists in the past. This post captured a lot of what I plan to hit on when I write my post-conference thoughts out. Mainly, that the WBC was great in many ways, but it clearly spelled out to me the difference between my own style of blogging on wine–from the viewpoint of the average consumer–and the perception I got from much of the content that if I’m not approaching posts as though I’m a journalist, interviewing the winemakers and telling their stories rather than the story of what’s in my glass, then perhaps I’m not doing the “right” sort of wine blogging. Good to see that I wasn’t the only one struck by these thoughts. This particular panel was only one that gave me that impression, and as it was focused on print, some of their suggestions/critiques made sense. I appreciated their years’ of experience and insight, but I think I should have probably sat that one out.
Mary says
Rebecca, thanks so much for taking the time to comment! I do believe it is important (and useful) to have the perspective from print writers. But I just fail to believe that there is also just one, and only one, way to do print! There are many, and it is not cookie cutter, which was the impression I left with. Cheers, and I hope to see you next year in the Finger Lakes.
Michael Wangbickler says
Thanks for posting a thought provoking article.
This indicates a trend we’re seeing. We’re noticing a paradigm shift. Among wine writers (even print), we’ve noticed a move away from scores, stats, and criticism to more focus on the consumer and what their likes and dislikes are (and what the blogger prefers).
In the end, this trend will probably continue and will require us to shift our thinking just a bit when talking about ‘wine writers’. But, for now, we’re going to have to keep a foot in both camps.
Mary says
I agree Michael! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Lisa Stephenson says
This article gave a “cool” viewpoint of the panel which led to the composition of an “awesome” article. I “had a blast” reading it. The words in the quotation marks are all words to be avoided according to this panel. Far too much time spent discussing the use of the comma. which suggests that the panel needs to diversify more in the use of other forms of punctuation.
Mary says
Ha!
Lindsay says
You had me at ‘But five minutes into the Q&A portion of the panel I started to feel discouraged.’ I agree 100% with all of your comments – from the lack of diversity to the unbelievably negative put downs. And if you thought the panel was bad, count yourself lucky you didn’t participate in the Sunday writing workshop. That ranks as one of the single most publicly embarrassing and mortifying experiences of my life. Stupid me for starters to have thought for about 2 seconds and thrown in a blog post for critiquing that I definitely shouldn’t have (all inside jokes, not my normal posting style, etc), but then to be called onto the mat, humiliated by name and in front of the others in the room was…well, let’s just say I’m still having flashbacks. So much so that I don’t want to blog anymore. Thanks for putting into words exactly how I have been feeling since Sunday, Mary. Winellama…
Mary says
Winellama, first of all don’t, for one second, stop blogging because of something one person said about it! That’s what’s so great about blogging, you can find an audience no matter your writing style. And after finding your site and perusing some of your content, you DO have a lot of great things to say! And hell, you just went to Champagne… so that makes you the coolest person in the world (at least in my book). That’s my ultimate bucket list location. Please keep blogging!!! And I hope to see you in the Finger Lakes next summer and toast over some Champagne 🙂
Chrissa Chase says
WBC14 Light would have been a better moniker for this year, compared to conferences in the past it was poorly executed and did not do much to introduce Santa Barbara to Wine Bloggers. Most speakers lacked context with the exception of the founders. I agree with your assessment of “Stupid White Men”.
Mary says
Thanks for the comment Chrissa! Though I never said “stupid” white men. Don’t go putting words in my mouth 😉
Allan Wright says
Hi Mary,
I appreciate your comments. Regarding diversity, we mostly take the top panelists available to us without regard to gender, race, or sexuality unless a panel is specifically about that – like “women winemakers”. We can do a better job to be proactive.
Regarding this panel, I agree it was probably a turnoff to have writers seemingly put down bloggers. However, I think the point of the panel was exactly what it delivered – the point of view of the professional print wine writer. We have had dozens of panels over the years representing the views of bloggers and this was designed to be different. It would indeed be interesting to have a “print writing versus blogging” panel next year; I’ll add that to our already-created list of possibilities.
Allan
Mary says
Thanks for taking the time to respond Allan! I appreciate it. I’ve been to five of the seven conferences, so you know I’m a fan of WBC and wouldn’t continue going if I didn’t find the content useful. You guys have had many other very successful print writers speak in past conferences (Lettie Teague, Linda Murphy, Jancis Robinson, Katherine Cole, and Andrea Robinson just to name the first few that popped in my head). I just noticed a general lack of diversity in this particular panel.
Alana Gentry says
Allen Wright, “Regarding diversity, we mostly take the top panelists available to us without regard to gender, race, or sexuality unless a panel is specifically about that – like “women winemakers”.
Wow. Really? WBC Organizers, this thinking is like the Catholic Church only ordaining men while fully aware that women and non-whites financially and congregationally are the largest supporters of the Church.
Take a hard look at the facts: women are the largest consumers of wine in the USA http://bit.ly/WqOekF Sales increases are in the (non-white) global market. http://bit.ly/1pvyy8b
If WBC is to remain relevant, modern and helpful to wine writers/bloggers it will need to rethink this subject. I have a feeling WBC is in danger of other conferences eclipsing it.
1WineDude says
Well said. I agree that the wbc generally seems to miss opportunities to diversify on the panels, and that’s coming from a frequent wbc panelist! Not only are there many ways to skin the professional writing cat (even about a topic treated as conservatively as wine), but we generally need to stop pretending that traditional wine writing gigs won’t be going the way of the dinosaur soon.
Mary says
Exactly Joe! Thanks for chiming in. And not all print publications target the same people and write in the same tone.
1WineDude says
Yep. I am not dissing WBC here, because there’s a lot of value in it especially for those new to the wine scene. But I’d LOVE to be on a panel with members that have different ethnic backgrounds, for example, and can offer perspectives that will therefore be different than mine. Now, I’m not saying all white dudes have the same background and perspectives – clearly we don’t – but am saying that those other perspectives are needed and would differ from mine in ways I probably cannot predict, and that can make for enlightening discussions, etc.
Mary says
Let’s hope for something like that next year!!
David says
I didn’t make the conference, so appreciate hearing about the conversation there! It does sound odd that they wouldn’t have a blogger on the panel you describe. I also agree that “perfect” is an appropriate adjective for many wines, in the right context.
Mary says
Thanks for your comment David. To be fair to the organizers it was called Panel of Professional “Print Wine Writers”, so a blogger may not have been an appropriate choice. I just wish there were more perspectives offered. Even in print wine writing, there’s no one way that’s the “correct” way. But that’s how it came across.
Alina says
Yup. I’m glad I skipped this session to chill in my room, get caught up on my emails/Facebook/other forms of social media and what not before the live blogging session. I would have been biting my tongue and drawing blood on it during that session had I stuck around.
Mary says
Ha! Probably a good thing you skipped it then?! 😉
Alissa Leenher says
Go get ’em. I love your ability to speak honestly, with humor (can I put a comma there?), about what so many were feeling.
Couldn’t wait until the morning to read. 😉
Mary says
Awe, thanks 🙂
Melanie Ofenloch says
Mary, brilliant … while I love writing (and do get paid by several sites to do it), my style is folksy and different. I write about my experience with wine, but I also have a day job that gives me the ability to buy, taste and experience wines (many times on my own dime…) It’s authentic me and I’m lucky enough to have a great and engaged readership. I wouldn’t trade it for the world.
Mary says
Exactly Melanie! And I love you for that (and so many more reasons of course). You are the real Melanie in your writing and that’s why people come back for more. It’s something they don’t get from magazines whose contributors change frequently… and that’s why it’s perfect… for you!
Jameson Fink says
Maybe we can get Pinch of Yum to lead a session at WBC15? Keynote?
Mary says
Jameson, that would be my dream! I’ll definitely be putting that recommendation in my post-conference survey.
Debbie says
Mary, I think if I was there I would have felt the same way you did. As much as they were print the panel should have consisted of bloggers as well to be a more well rounded “writers.” Since I was not there and can only get an idea from your rant, it sounds like they might just be a little threatened with bloggers.
The comment about photographs was like a hands off, I write about it and let someone else pick the pictures…I couldn’t tell you how many times in my marketing career that the wrong picture was printed with an article.
Wish I was there so I could comment more on the subject.
Mary says
Debbie, thanks so much for chiming in! You were definitely missed this year. And I really really hope to see you next year in your own backyard 🙂
Paul Tudor MW (@paultudor) says
I don’t believe that all “wine journalists” can be painted with the same brush. I certainly don’t advocate recipe wine analysis and description, just as I am against recipe winemaking. It sounds like you struck a bad bunch (excuse pun) and while it would have been advisable to have had bloggers running the session, remember that most of these so called “professionals” started out in other careers/avenues. I wouldn’t take their criticism to heart!
Mary says
Thanks for your comment Paul! And I did respect the three panelists and think their feedback was important. I just wish there had been more overall diversity (both in the panel members and the advice given). Cheers
Marcy Gordon says
Way to go go Mary. You beat me to the rant! Could not agree more.
And in complete disregard for the words we were told to NEVER use–I like to say this post was AWESOME, DELIGHTFUL, and PERFECT!
Mary says
Thanks Marcy! I’d still love to hear your rant on the subject. You brought up totally different things than I did. Cheers!