My Response To The Panel of Professional Print Writers at the Wine Bloggers Conference
Jul 15, 2014, Updated Nov 21, 2023
Is it okay to describe a wine as “perfect”? I think so. And many up and coming wine writers think so to.
I was particularly eager to hear what the “pros” had to say on day two of the 7th Annual Wine Bloggers Conference, in a session titled: Panel of Professional Print Wine Writers. The professionals on the panel included writers James Conaway, Mike Dunne, and Steve Heimoff.
(Photo courtesy of George Rose Photography. Used with permission.)
But five minutes into the Q&A portion of the panel I started to feel discouraged.
First of all, I couldn’t help but notice the complete lack of diversity when assessing the panel members. Though the panel was moderated by an awesome woman, the actual panel consisted of just three older, white, men who are traditional print journalists…. Okay. But, they were speaking to an audience of wine bloggers. Many of whom were women. Many were younger. And several of whom were not Caucasian.
They discussed how they got into wine writing, how much print writers make these days, and began to give advice in a Q&A format.
And that is where they started to frustrate me. It quickly became apparent to me that they were missing the boat on addressing this particular audience – an audience of wine bloggers. Some bloggers follow traditional journalism standards, but many don’t. Additionally they demonstrated a fundamental lack of understanding of the way many blogs are successful.
Using Media Formats
When asked about the use (or overuse) of photos and imagery in a blog post, they fumbled to a response, missing entirely the grasp on the power of imagery in online media. “Art Directors are in charge of photos,” they claimed, and aren’t all that important anyways.
Um, no. I’m pretty sure this famous food blogger would argue otherwise about the importance of imagery to tell a story.
It wasn’t until they collectively expressed their pet peeves in wine blogging –the “to do” and “not to do” in wine writing advice– that I stared to feel exasperated. For instance, the using terms like “perfect” to describe a wine (as in “perfect steak wine”) was universally disapproved of and joked about as if it were some kind of insider “pro” thing to turn their nose on people who use those terms.
Because, of course there’s one, and only one way to properly write about wine. And get paid for it.
The Truth – Wine Is Partly Subjective
I can’t begin to tell you how many people I encounter (friends, family, readers, folks in classes I teach, even strangers!) who are indeed looking for a “perfect” [fill in the blank] wine.
No, they’re not looking for a wine that exhibits dense loamy earth, with an essence of eucalyptus, cassis, mint, and tobacco leaf, aged 18 months in new French oak barrels with chewy tannins.
They want an inexpensive and refreshing wine appropriate to serve at their backyard BBQ or summer picnic, or a special wine good enough to bring to dinner with their future in-laws. And sometimes, it would be helpful if the wine was indeed “delicious” or “yummy.”
Many don’t want to search too far and wide for this “perfect” wine, nor be treated like an idiot in a stuffy wine store for not knowing exactly what they like or want. They may not care about points, but they also don’t want to spend too much on a wine.
Sure, sometimes they will indeed splurge on a $20+ bottle of wine. But for the most part, many people just want something that tastes good, doesn’t cost a lot, something they don’t really have to think about, and can confidently serve to friends without stressing.
But, according to the “professionals” at the conference, we should refrain from that style of writing, for it isn’t true journalism.
Strive To Be Helpful
I just want those panelists to know that not all of us who blog are out to be journalists. Some of us just simply wish to be helpful to real people who buy real wine and have real needs (like finding a $10 wine to bring to a tailgating party). Yes, there are people out there who are looking for that “perfect” wine!
I freelance for a variety of publications, both print and online. Some wine related, some not. I have a different tone depending on my particular audience and publication I’m writing for. I LOVE it when I have an editor. But for my blog, I don’t have one (well, unless you count my husband who often proofreads my work. He does love to call me out on my excessive use of exclamation points!! But normally he’s just as exhausted as I am to catch my improper comma placements).
My Point of View
For my blog, I think it’s absolutely okay (and often encouraged) to describe a wine as the “perfect” poolside sipper, porch pounder, party wine, gardening wine, or post-marathon wine. And as a consumer (because yes, I also buy a lot of wine with my own cash money), I actually appreciate the terms “delicious”, “refreshing”, and sometimes even “yummy”.
I get where you’re coming from James, Mike, and Steve. I do. You’re coming from an old-school print journalism standard, and I do respect that. But not everyone strives to be that kind of writer.
Reading the Room – The Future of People First Content
I think it may have been more helpful, to the audience at a wine BLOGGERS conference, to have had a few different perspectives and voices on that panel. Perhaps a panelist who understood the word of blogs and blogging, like a professional blogger (though not necessarily “wine” blogger). I just think multiple perspectives, including the three panelists, would have led to a richer discussion.
Jjust for comparison, my favorite food blogger excessively uses the term “you guys” to refer to her readers, and “yum”, “best ever”, even “OMG”, to describe her food. And she’s very popular. And very successful. In fact, she made over $31,000 in one month alone. So, there’s that.
So, while I didn’t speak up during the panel discussion (and instead sat there in silence and frustration without standing up and expressing my true feelings), I do get paid to write about wine — both in print, and online, and I feel very blessed to have a career doing something I LOVE doing.
I also write my own blog. And I just want anyone in that room who may have been discouraged by that panel to know that, yes, you can be yourself, and use slang terms, and descriptors like “perfect” and “delicious” in your BLOG posts.
Because at the end of the day, it’s a blog. And it’s YOUR blog. You are the editor and you get to make those decisions. And when you do get the (sometimes awesome) experience of working with an editor for a print or online publication, she or he will be the one to determine if those terms get edited out of the article in order to fit that publication’s specific audience.
Write For Your Audience
But if it works for YOUR audience, for your blog, then, by all means, go with it!
Looking for the perfect wine for that moment when you discover your kids just filled the pool with mud and decided to start mud wrestling in it? I was.
I simply believe the organizers missed an opportunity to add diversity to the panel. Not just diversity of gender, and social and economic background. But also diversity of writing styles and examples of what can be successful in this day and age.
And I’m now off to go find the perfect wine to drink with the turkey burgers I’m grilling up for dinner tonight.
Is there such thing as the “perfect burger wine”?
About Vindulge
Mary (a certified sommelier and recipe developer) and Sean (backyard pitmaster) are co-authors of the critically acclaimed cookbook, Fire + Wine, and have been creating content for the IACP nominated website Vindulge since 2009. They live in Oregon on a farm just outside Portland.
I appreciate your style and approach to your viewpoint. Some have referenced this as a rant, and I would have to disagree. I view rants as emotionally lead, and often disregarding others feelings to push their own. In many instances, rationality and facts go out the window.
You maintained control, respect, and dignity for all mentioned, including your responses. I applaud you!
There is one aspect I would consider paramount to the panel we attended.
Know your audience.
It would seem, at least based upon this class we attended, that this point may have been the real disconnect. Had the panel been able to relate and communicate to bloggers, and the diversity of the room, then it would not have had so many attendees feeling the way you’ve described.
While the panels demographic may have not been able to connect, they as people could have connected. Rapper Eminem is able to connect to a large diversity, and I think any panel has that same opportunity. It is up to them to make the connection.
My feeling is that one of the panelist made the connection, but some of that may have been lost by previous comments. I sense some just felt offended by some statements and could not get past them. My judgment is based upon both those I’ve communicated with, and the blog posts on this topic.
So I guess that is my rant, 🙂
Cheers to you!
Shawn
Hi Shawn, I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to write such a thoughtful response to my post, and I’m relieved to hear you didn’t take it as a “rant” as others may have. I spent a long time drafting and editing this piece to try to avoid that. In fact, I’ve never even written anything rant-like on this site before this. It’s not my style. But after speaking with several frustrated attendees after the particular panel, on specific points, I felt the need to voice my thoughts.
I meant no offense to the panelists in this post, and I sincerely hope they didn’t take it that way.
You nailed exactly my point – “Know your audience”
I attended the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers a few years ago and observed a very (very) similar panel (same topic, similar advice). Yet nothing stirred from the audience. This is because the audience was comprised of print writers or aspiring print writers. I think the blogger SAHMmelier had an excellent, relevant, yet fun comparison when she wrote, “It was kind of like Cat Stevens coaching Eminem on storytelling in music. Both are great at storytelling, but the motivation and the audience differ greatly.”
I also agree with you that the connection was lost on many, myself included, by statements they couldn’t get past. My post is an example of that. I would have loved to have a conversation with a couple of the panelists after the session (specifically the one you mentioned in your final paragraph), and chat more informally about some of my thoughts, but it just didn’t happen with how large the conference was.
Cheers!
Mary, what thoughtful observations and a very good post. This is important feedback for the organizers but also a big observation as to where print wine writing is at in North America as well. I would agree with you that most of the comments as they relate to print from the panel are not directly relevant to most the bloggers that were in the room. And some of the comments were so print specific that it showed that they were not relating to blogging audience per se. But if, as Allan says this was meant to stand out as a print panel and I guess they succeeded, and we’ll see what next year holds.
I did not attend that seminar on purpose, because it would be to me like going to a religious service where the leaders had a completely different view from the congregants — and had no idea how their congregants lived. That said, it’s easy to say photos aren’t important when you write for a publication that includes nicely composed photos with your piece — that you don’t have to both to take, process, position and post. Wonder just how successful the writers’ articles would be in a medium without photographs? On-line with an instant gratification medium? I’m guessing not at all.
Cheers Mary for speaking truth to power!
Thanks so much 🙂 And totally agree about photos. So incredibly important for online!
Thank you for such an articulate response. I actually attended this panel looking for advice on wine writing for a lifestyle piece I was working on, and left extremely frustrated- with more “do nots” than “dos”
And completely contrary advice from what I was getting from my editor.
I think some diversity and debate would have changed that. I respect the work the panelists have and are doing, but it seemed strangely out of touch. The changing demographics of wine consumers and HOW people consume information are extremely important issues that I don’t feel weren’t necessarily addressed. (I was only able to sit in for half the panel, but were declining subscription numbers and the effects on print journalism ever addressed?!)
Btw: I’ve never had to pair wine with mud-wrestling. What IS the perfect pairing? Whatever’s closest? Stelvin closure for quick access? The “Oh shit” bottle you’re saving for “one of those days”? Just guessing here…I’m gonna keep a bottle of Austrian Gruner on hand just in case…
Cheers,
Alison (Bon Vivant DC)
Hi Alison, thanks for the comment! And that was exactly how I felt. I do respect the panel members, but they don’t necessarily represent the new wave of print. It would have been fantastic for them to be there representing an old-school print, but also to have a couple people representing the future of print. Different perspectives, that’s all. And perhaps a little optimism as well?!
And as for the mud-wrestling wine. Well, first I made myself a cocktail. The gin was closer than the wine at that particular moment. Then eventually worked my way to rosé, because it was chilled and, yes, had a stelvin closure (a must for moms who have too much to think about than keeping the cork puller nearby).
I’ll eagerly await your inevitable post on mud-wrestling drinking dos and don’ts- I think many of my friends with children would get a kick out of it! Quick, easy & accessible seem to be the main components they look for, but the parenting crisis wine niche is clearly under-served. As a mom of twins, I’m sure you’re particularly well qualified!
(Pardon the typos- writing from my phone)
Great article, thanks!
Wineries and PR folks have been wonderful to me, for the most part. The one thing they could do over and above what they’re doing now: publish excerpts of the blog post with a link back to the post or to the blog. That way they get media testimonials, we get traffic.
Yesterday I learned that Jancis Robinson had cited my blog in one of her reviews of an $11 wine. I’d either gone to the Web site or had a tech sheet on it sent to me with the wine — in any case, I delineated the blend’s grapes and percentages. She quoted it and linked back to my piece. Much appreciated.
Wow. Congrats on the Jancis Robinson citing. That’s very cool!
As a first-time WBC attendee, it’s good to hear that there has been more focus on panels of bloggers rather than journalists in the past. This post captured a lot of what I plan to hit on when I write my post-conference thoughts out. Mainly, that the WBC was great in many ways, but it clearly spelled out to me the difference between my own style of blogging on wine–from the viewpoint of the average consumer–and the perception I got from much of the content that if I’m not approaching posts as though I’m a journalist, interviewing the winemakers and telling their stories rather than the story of what’s in my glass, then perhaps I’m not doing the “right” sort of wine blogging. Good to see that I wasn’t the only one struck by these thoughts. This particular panel was only one that gave me that impression, and as it was focused on print, some of their suggestions/critiques made sense. I appreciated their years’ of experience and insight, but I think I should have probably sat that one out.
Rebecca, thanks so much for taking the time to comment! I do believe it is important (and useful) to have the perspective from print writers. But I just fail to believe that there is also just one, and only one, way to do print! There are many, and it is not cookie cutter, which was the impression I left with. Cheers, and I hope to see you next year in the Finger Lakes.
Thanks for posting a thought provoking article.
This indicates a trend we’re seeing. We’re noticing a paradigm shift. Among wine writers (even print), we’ve noticed a move away from scores, stats, and criticism to more focus on the consumer and what their likes and dislikes are (and what the blogger prefers).
In the end, this trend will probably continue and will require us to shift our thinking just a bit when talking about ‘wine writers’. But, for now, we’re going to have to keep a foot in both camps.
I agree Michael! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
This article gave a “cool” viewpoint of the panel which led to the composition of an “awesome” article. I “had a blast” reading it. The words in the quotation marks are all words to be avoided according to this panel. Far too much time spent discussing the use of the comma. which suggests that the panel needs to diversify more in the use of other forms of punctuation.
Ha!
You had me at ‘But five minutes into the Q&A portion of the panel I started to feel discouraged.’ I agree 100% with all of your comments – from the lack of diversity to the unbelievably negative put downs. And if you thought the panel was bad, count yourself lucky you didn’t participate in the Sunday writing workshop. That ranks as one of the single most publicly embarrassing and mortifying experiences of my life. Stupid me for starters to have thought for about 2 seconds and thrown in a blog post for critiquing that I definitely shouldn’t have (all inside jokes, not my normal posting style, etc), but then to be called onto the mat, humiliated by name and in front of the others in the room was…well, let’s just say I’m still having flashbacks. So much so that I don’t want to blog anymore. Thanks for putting into words exactly how I have been feeling since Sunday, Mary. Winellama…
Winellama, first of all don’t, for one second, stop blogging because of something one person said about it! That’s what’s so great about blogging, you can find an audience no matter your writing style. And after finding your site and perusing some of your content, you DO have a lot of great things to say! And hell, you just went to Champagne… so that makes you the coolest person in the world (at least in my book). That’s my ultimate bucket list location. Please keep blogging!!! And I hope to see you in the Finger Lakes next summer and toast over some Champagne 🙂
WBC14 Light would have been a better moniker for this year, compared to conferences in the past it was poorly executed and did not do much to introduce Santa Barbara to Wine Bloggers. Most speakers lacked context with the exception of the founders. I agree with your assessment of “Stupid White Men”.
Thanks for the comment Chrissa! Though I never said “stupid” white men. Don’t go putting words in my mouth 😉